Iain

Oct 062014
 

I left France from St Jean Pied de Port and headed uphill over the Pyrenees.  It turns out it’s quite hilly in Spain.  The route has been a slightly strange mixture of deserted main roads due to a ‘new’ dual carriageway having been built next to the old main road and busy main roads where there is no alternative road.

I’ve managed to dig out some quieter roads but often there is little choice without a huge diversion and you can bet it’s going to be a hilly diversion too!  I’m mainly following the Camino de Santiago route which means I’ve used the walking path at times too.  It is a mixture of surfaces, some suitable for my bike, some not, it’s difficult to find out what it’s like without just taking it.

It might not have any cars on it but it has loads of walkers which are often more dangerous as for some reason they keep thinking you are going to cycle straight into them so keep moving about as you approach.

The route so far took me into Pamplona from France and then on to Estella, Los Arcos, Logrono, Najera, Belorado, Burgos and into Castrojeriz.

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Sep 292014
 

I left the Eurovelo 6  (European Cycle Route) near Digoin and headed South West through France.  This was the way I had been advised to go, across the Northern part of the Central Massif.  I was told it was miles more interesting if a tad hilly.  The scenery was great, it was definitely hilly but I found myself drifting in to bouts of loneliness as I hardly saw any cyclists, the locals didn’t speak English and there were few tourists around.

It was good to punch through that particular wall.  It reinforced why I want/need to learn Spanish to make it through South America.

The route I took was from Digoin to Saint Purcain sur Siole – Pontaumur – Maitreux – Saint Fereole – Lissac sur Couze – Cenac – Montagna sur Lede – Villeneuve sur Lot – Reaup Lisse – Mazerolles – Grenade sur L’Ardour – Arthez de Bearn – Musculdy – St Jean Pied de Port.

 Posted by at
Sep 242014
 

lonely-among-people

My mind has been full of decisions to make over the last few weeks. I’ve been conscious that Spain has been approaching and I didn’t have a plan on what to do when I got there.  Just getting to Spain would be amazing and somewhat emotional as it would be the first part of the plan complete.

I’m currently in St Jean Pied de Port some 10km from the Spanish border so saving a monumental disaster I’ll cover that off tomorrow!

On hearing a friend of mine was due to be walking the Camino de Santiago in September and having read about people cycling it sometime ago I thought it might fit my (loose) plans.  That is why I headed for St Jean Pied de Port in France, it is a traditional starting point for the Camino.  Judging by the number of tourists and associated crap that goes with that I’m in the right place!

I’m going to follow the route on and off, some on the trail where it is suitable for my bike and luggage and take the road elsewhere.

sign-to-Santiago

Sign in Xanten in Germany

The original idea was to ride to Spain to learn Spanish before flying to South America to start the ride north from Ushuaia. I had toyed with the idea of learning Spanish in South America previously but I tied myself in knots over travel insurance of all things.
However it made more and more sense and others I have met advised likewise.  To go and learn Spanish in South America before starting the ride.  The Spanish is different although similar, but then again it varies in certain countries in South America too.

I’ve been looking at options on where to learn Spanish, where to live, all the while with Ushuaia (where I will start the ride north from) on my mind.

The thing is, I chose to ride South to North through the Americas because it needs to be summer at either end for the roads to be open, I think….
Summer ‘starts’ in the very south on 1st December so I was always planning around that date. I couldn’t wait or begin in time to get to Alaska for 1st June or so to head South.
It appears most people go North to South because of the wind.  However most people I had read about whilst dreaming of this trip went South to North.  Maybe their stories were just more interesting?
I have experienced the wind in Patagonia, I have read the stories about it being impossible to cycle because of the head wind and I hate cycling in the wind…..

You would be justified to ask, why the hell are you doing it like this then?

I guess the simple answer is; When you gotta go, you gotta go.
To be slightly more philosophical about it, there is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way to do this, there is just the hard way. Like building up to hills then mountains so my knees get accustomed to the strain, my mind has been toughening up over the last couple of months too.
Of course I don’t know how much or enough; how will I react faced with an imaginary future scenario? Who knows, you don’t until you are in it.

But it worries me and that isn’t a good frame of mind.

I’m resorting to my tactics that got me out of the door in the first place and writing lists on what worries me and then to address it.

  • Flight to South America – I leave Madrid on the 27th October 2014 bound for Buenos Aires.
  • Accommodation in Buenos Aires – not sorted, I need a room for me and my bike (proving to be the problem!) for November.
  • Language School in Buenos Aires – Tentatively sorted.
  • Flight to Ushuaia – not sorted, waiting till accommodation is sorted first.
  • Clothes and gear – I want a warm jacket, a new sleeping bag (not many feathers left inside my current one). Don’t know what to do about footwear/leg wear because of the cold and rain. Trying to find out what i need to know and sourcing a reasonably priced one of the above is troublesome when living in a tent. Lack of WiFi and electricity stop easy research!

Then there is the worry about losing all my cycling fitness and strength by spending a month in a city. I doubt there is much decent riding until you get well out of Buenos Aires, so maybe I just join a gym but it isn’t the same thing by far.

When I get to Ushuaia, do I leave straight away? Do I stay and do some trial runs first to get used to the big change in climate and to trust my legs again?

Then the final thing that actually makes me laugh, because it worries me the least but I’m guessing most people (not doing this type of thing) would want to know. What is your route? Which way are you going?

Ah hmmm, well I’ll pick up a map when i get there and see where the road goes North……

It sounds like I’m a bit of a worrier from reading that back.

Well I guess I am, I need to be in control, I need to know certain things to be comfortable and to relax. I hate messing things up. In fact it’s not that, I can’t stand the thought of other people judging me for messing it up. To be a failure in others eyes, to have this impossible dream, throw it out to the big wide world, have people say it’s amazing, wish me good luck, only for me to fail.

The abject misery of people looking at me and seeing in their eyes that they ‘knew’ I wasn’t strong enough, that people like me always fail, always give up, always are the weakest link.

I can’t stand the thought of that more than most things in life so hence I’m worrying about being prepared enough.

I’m not under any illusions that Patagonia is a place to be respected and getting something ‘wrong’ there can potentially be really serious. It’s not a Summer ride through Western Europe with a shop on every corner and sunshine most days.

So hopefully my list of worries above actually address the important things, like staying dry, warm and having shelter.  Things that keep you alive when you realise that you are lost and you should have spent more time researching a route….

 Posted by at
Sep 162014
 

The last of the flat lands, continuing along Les Doubs to where it met La Saône, until I got to the point just west of Digoin where I went south for the hills!

 Posted by at
Sep 142014
 

coffee-break 

I was advised to go across the northern part of the Massif Central in France by a particular nice French lady.  She suggested my plan of going directly west following the Eurovelo route 6 which follows rivers and is flat as being boring.

‘Yes there are hills if you go across the Massif but it’s far more interesting.’

Now I don’t know what the Eurovelo route is like but she was spot on about the Massif being beautiful.  It has been so rewarding and coming off the back of the mental game that I mentioned before it was spot on with its timing.  The last week has been for me why I started this trip, my love affair with the bicycle.

Slogging up a hill for 10km was a rude introduction into the hills and as it turned out the longest climb of the trip so far.  I guess that was me getting up on to the plateau.  That probably isn’t the right word as it has been anything but flat.  A rollercoaster would be a fair description, a corkscrew more accurate.  Of course I’m not in love with cycling uphill for 10km in one go, I am however seduced by my ability to do it.  After the best part of a week of the hills I was marvelling at the new found strength to keep going.  It isn’t a in your face, bulging muscles, Clarkson shouting “POWER!” strength, it’s compact, it’s dense, it’s something deep inside that allows the legs to keep turning.

It is intoxicating.

Then of course what goes up, must come down.  Down some hills that a mother would not approve of.  Small single track roads, winding their way down the valley sides through forests and fields, over streams through tiny hamlets not marked on the map.

I found my zone, where I move into that trance like state of total concentration, my mind is clear and focused.  Intently scanning the ribbon of tarmac some 5 metres in front, searching for anything that will upset the rhythm of the bike.  Using my body to set the bike for the upcoming turns and surface alterations, making small adjustments at speed with the brakes to move the weight around.  My peripheral vision is scanning for anything else using the road, ready to scream the instruction through my central nervous system to make an emergency alteration in a split second as that is all I have.  I only had to do it once and the bike stuck to the road like glue, squirming but staying straight, the weight of the luggage flexing the frame as the brakes are hammered on, wiping critical speed off.

My confidence in mine and the bike’s ability to descend at speed merely adding to the thrill.

Possibly some of that confidence helped bring the balance back in my mental game with the wild camping as not only did I have epic days cycling, I found some great spots in the forests for camping with no one around and no worries.  Balance restored and smile firmly restored!

I’ve also realised how much closer I am to Spain than I thought I was.  You know what? I might just do what I set out to do and that makes me smile from the inside.

 Posted by at
Sep 042014
 

bivvy-in-the-woods

I’m starting to understand why people say long trips such as mine are as much or more a mental challenge than a physical one.  Of course I thought I knew that before I began but I can feel the emotions now.

I’ve had days where the cycling has being boring.  I find cycling along roads where I can’t stop with little in the way of changing scenery somewhat tedious.

To pass the time, my mind normally wanders to food.  I try and invent new one pan dishes.  For someone who was very fastidious about their diet and ate where possible a whole food diet, travelling on the road with one pan and unknown food outlets can be a tortuous process.  I kid myself and don’t look at the ingredients sometimes.  It took ages for me to notice my stock dinner of tinned mackerel in a tomato based sauce with pasta and veggies was loaded with MSG.  That is now off the menu.
My latest incarnation is using olive oil as a sauce and adding cheese with rice and veggies with some spice thrown in for taste.  I always buy cooked meat when I use that for protein as it’s very difficult to get enough raw meat for one meal and secondly because I’m worried about the hygiene in preparing it.

If you want to give it a go, try the following.

Go to a supermarket (preferably one you have never been in before), buy enough food for one meal only as you can’t refrigerate anything left but you need to be able to carry it in two hands.
Leave in a bag somewhere warm for a few hours.
When ready to cook, go outside.  Doesn’t matter if it is raining. Improvise.
Take your one pan, 2 litres in size, one gas burner and no more than 1 litre of water.
Cook your dinner.
Remember to save a bit of the water to wash the pan with afterwards.

Then send me the recipe!

The biggest mental challenge is easily finding somewhere to sleep each night.  I am choosing (yes it is a choice) to wild camp as much as possible.  That means what it says on the tin, you sleep in the wild, or outdoors somewhere, in my tent or in the bivvy bag, just not anywhere that charges money for it.
Over the long run, this saves a great deal of money as it’s about 60% of what I spend on a day I stay in a campsite.  Hence I try and do it as much as possible.

However it obviously comes at a cost and that is paid in stress.  It takes practise and experience to work out where people aren’t going to find you.  The best looking sites always seem to be the worst ideas when someone appears from nowhere.  I just move on then and keep looking.

I had a good run in Germany, didn’t find it too tricky and could put the tent up every time, good job as it rained at night a fair bit.  Apart from the one time when i thought I was out of ideas and decided against my better judgement to put the tent up in the middle of a shooting range in a wood.  I was discovered by a game warden who said it wasn’t a good idea but suggested somewhere else to go!

Whilst I’ve been in France it has been more populated on the route I’ve taken and that always makes it harder.  The last two have been particular stressful.

The first occasion I found an abandoned lock keepers house with a shed out the back with no door on.  It was next to a road but not near any buildings so decided to use just the bivvy bag and hunker down in the shed for the night.  First time I had had a roof over my head whilst doing it.  However in the middle of the night I awoke to voices and torch lights, I think I let out a deep moan as opposed to a scream and whoever it was sounded distinctly more frightened than me and I heard them leg it back over the lock, get into a car and wheel spin away.  Needless to say I didn’t sleep much more that night, lying there wishing for the dawn, the safety of sunlight and a new day.

Two nights later I had a different problem, I just couldn’t find anywhere I thought was suitable, most likely put off by the recent experience I was looking for a perfect spot, which of course you never find.  I tried what looked like a promising turning from a car park off the road into some woods, only to be followed by some guy in a van.  I had stopped, surveying a spot, when he turns up, gets out and makes small talk (in French).  Something wasn’t right, he sounded nervous, I realised he was asking if I was staying here the night and turning to see the sun sinking to the horizon I said no, and got moving.  I think I might have inadvertently wandered into a nocturnal meeting spot for people that like hanging around in car parks….

The problem now was I was fast running out of daylight, I had done too many miles, I was tired, I just wanted somewhere to sleep.  Luckily I found another wood down the road, with just a track running through it, so I hotfooted it through the bushes and trees a good 100 metres or so from the path and got out the bivvy bag.  There was no space to put the tent (it’s the photo at the top of the page) and I was out of daylight.  I went to sleep with the sound of twigs breaking and rustling, what you come to realise are just animals, you can tell by the sound level that they aren’t heavy enough to be human, either that or they are special forces.  I was only woken during the night by slugs crawling through my hair or trying to get into my warm sleeping bag.

This is the mental game I’m playing, the game I invited on myself.  To make this trip sustainable, to have a chance of reaching the end (where ever that may be) then it is a price worth paying.

The funny thing is, having a bit of ‘luxury’ like I did on my birthday weekend makes it harder.  It reminds you of what you can have, of what I am choosing to walk away from. To choose hardship instead of be forced (or born) into it.  I’m not complaining, my life is easy, I only worry about food, water & shelter for myself.  It is a selfish existence, a meaningless penance but then what isn’t?

I wanted a challenge, I’m starting to realise what it actually is.

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Aug 312014
 

During the last leg of my trip down the Rhine in Germany I stopped at Kehl to have a day off.  Strasbourg was a walk over the bridge into France.  I spent a day exploring the old city which is surrounded by a moat.  It’s very picturesque (apart from the station, mon dieu!).  Stick a glass jumper over a lovely old building……

For one reason or another I collate the photos into countries (something I’m increasingly thinking of not doing) hence why they are only appearing now.  Once I had reached Basel I turned east over the pedestrian bridge into France, saying auf wiedersehen to the Rhine.  It had become a constant part of my life so felt strange to be leaving it.

I was heading towards Montbeliard where I could pick up another Eurovelo cycle route and follow a different river for a bit!  I got introduced to the rolling hills of France immediately as it was all up and down, no flat.

I passed through Folgensbourg, Muespach, Feldbach, Seppois-le-Bas, Delle, Beaucourt, Dasle and around the bottom of MontBeliard.  It was here I joined up with Eurovelo 6 and the river Le Daubs.  It was a shortish ride to L’Isle-sur-le-Doubs before stopping for a few days off at Baume Les Dames.

 

 Posted by at
Aug 272014
 

The last section of my ride along the Rhine was through southern Germany from Speyer, through Germersheim, Karlsruhe, Plittersdorf, Kehl, Ottenheim, Rust, Sabach am Kaiserstuhl, Breisach, Neuenberg, Bad Bellingen and finally Weil am Rhein and across the border into Basel.
It was very different down there, hardly any river traffic, the river actually got shallow enough for some white water.  Plenty of flood prevention methods around as well, accompanying canals and areas to flood if needs be.  From Karlsruhe heading south you can ride the French side of the river if you choose to.  I stayed on the German side all the way to Basel, hardly a tarmac path in site, all off-road gravel paths and not many people.

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Aug 232014
 

My second week cycling in Germany was the picture postcard old castles overlooking the river.

South from Cologne I first came to Bonn where the UNESCO world heritage section starts, on to Remagen, Bad Breisig, Koblenz, St Goar, Ingelheim am Rhein, Mainz, Oppenheim, Gernsheim and to Hamm.

On the opposite side of the river was a ‘mothballed’ nuclear power plant.  Germany has shut down all her nuclear power plants, deciding that it’s not the future for them.  I sat there staying at this beautifully maintained grounds surrounding the reactor and four huge cooling towers thinking something is very wrong with the world.  Forget the money sunk into it, what the hell are you going to do with it now?  It is no doubt destined to be part of the countryside for an awful long time.

 Posted by at
Aug 202014
 

These photos were off my first week in Germany after I crossed the border at Millingen aan de Rijn.  I passed through the old Roman town of Xanten, then on to Rheinberg, Duisberg, Neuss (over the river from Dusseldorf), Dormagen, Leverkusen before arriving in Cologne.
I stayed in Cologne with a friend (Thomas and his wife Gaby) I had met in the Philippines back in February.  They were great company and Thomas an excellent tour guide of Cologne! I also got to go to a birthday party of one of their friends and a gay wedding!  Needless to say I had a great time and can’t thank them enough!

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